Peel and finely grate the horseradish. Stir 1 tablespoon into the crème fraîche, add a splash of red wine vinegar, then season to taste with sea salt.
Scrub the beets clean, reserving any nice leaves, then finely slice into matchsticks with good knife skills or using the julienne cutter on a mandolin (use the guard!). Dress with 1 tablespoon each of extra virgin olive and red wine vinegar.
Divide the smoked salmon between plates, followed by a spoonful of the horseradish sauce, the beets and any reserved leaves, and some cress. Drizzle with a teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of black pepper, then serve with an extra grating of horseradish, if you like.